Seoul, First Chapter

Settle into your hotel and get your bearings. Staying somewhere in central Jung-gu or Jongno puts you within walking distance of the day's highlights.

Start where the Joseon dynasty made its grandest first impression. The triple-arched gate anchors the north–south axis of the city, with Admiral Yi Sun-sin and King Sejong presiding over the square in front. Take your time with the plaza before the afternoon heat builds.

Walk straight through Gwanghwamun's gate into the main palace of the Joseon dynasty. The vast throne hall, lotus pond and mountain backdrop set the tone for everything else you'll see this week. The late-afternoon light on the tiled rooftops is worth lingering for.

Wind down the day in Insadong, a short walk east of the palace. 오세계향 is a local favourite for a warming, flavour-packed dinner — the perfect low-key introduction to Seoul's neighbourhood dining scene.

Finish the evening at this Jung-gu whisky bar, just a short taxi or subway hop from Insadong. The curated pour list skews toward Japanese and Scotch malts — ideal for a slow first night in the city.

Seoul's UNESCO-listed palace is at its most atmospheric first thing in the morning before the crowds arrive. The Huwon — the rear garden of woodland pavilions and ponds — rewards every minute you spend in it.

A short walk south of Changdeokgung, this long, spare wooden hall houses the spirit tablets of Joseon kings and queens. The silence here is deliberate and striking — one of Seoul's genuinely solemn spaces.

Reward a morning of royal history with a hearty braised chicken jjim — the signature dish here is a rich, soy-and-spice affair served in a wide pan over glass noodles. Exactly the kind of lunch Seoul does best.

Descend to the sunken stream that runs through the heart of the city. The stone-paved banks are cool even in summer, lined with art installations and lantern hangers. Walk as far west as you like before emerging back into the city grid.

Seoul's oldest and largest traditional market is at its most alive in the late afternoon. Stalls selling everything from dried seafood to knock-off eyewear crowd the lanes around the great stone gate. Good for snacking, souvenir-hunting and getting briefly, pleasantly lost.

End the day in Myeongdong with grilled clams and steamed seafood — this place is the area's go-to for charcoal shellfish cooked right at the table. Noisy, fun, and the sort of dinner that makes you understand why Seoulites eat out so often.

Round out the evening at this craft-beer spot in Jung-gu. Korean microbrewing has come a long way, and the rotating tap list here is a good place to track its progress over a couple of pints.

The 600-year-old fortification still rings the old city, and the Naksan ridge section offers some of the best views over the rooftops toward Namsan. The wall path is steep in places but manageable, and the morning air is worth the climb.

Walk the wall down to the great East Gate, the only gate in the city wall circuit to have its own moat. Standing beside it, with traffic flowing around the stone base, gives you a vivid sense of how the modern city has grown up around its own past.

Head south to Myeongdong for lunch. 오다리집 delivers the kind of robust Korean cooking that fuels a long day on foot — the sort of neighbourhood restaurant that locals return to again and again.

Cross the river to Yongsan for one of Asia's great museum collections. The Bronze Age artefacts, Silla gold crowns and Buddhist sculpture galleries give the palaces and walls you've been walking proper historical context. Allow at least two hours.

Walk or taxi to the Han River for the evening fountain show at Banpo Bridge, where thousands of LED-lit water jets arc off both sides of the bridge into the river below. The riverside parks here are perfect for an evening stroll — locals bring snacks and blankets.

A proper Korean beef dinner to close the day. 한우마을 specialises in 한우 — Korean native cattle — and the quality of the meat speaks clearly for itself over a charcoal grill.

Opened to public visits relatively recently, the former presidential residence at the foot of Bugaksan is a rare chance to walk grounds that were off-limits for decades. The pine-forested compound and mountain backdrop make it one of the most photographed spots in the city.

Just inside the Gyeongbokgung grounds, this open-air and indoor museum traces everyday Korean life from the Three Kingdoms period to the twentieth century. A quieter, more human counterpoint to the grand palace architecture next door.

부대찌개 — the famous 'army stew' born in the post-war years from surplus goods — is one of Seoul's most beloved comfort dishes. 놀부 does a definitive version: bubbling, red, loaded with sausage, spam and tofu, perfect for mid-trip refuelling.

Korea's immersive tourism hub near Gwanghwamun is a playful, tech-forward afternoon stop — part digital art installation, part cultural showcase, with interactive experiences that cover everything from K-pop to traditional craft. Good for a couple of hours before the evening begins.

Jump on the subway (Line 2 or the Airport Railroad) and head west to Hongdae — Seoul's university arts district and one of the best places in the city to spend a final evening.

Explore the Hongdae streets before dinner — street performers, independent boutiques and the famous arcade culture of this neighbourhood make for great wandering.

Seoul's arcade culture is alive and well, and this spot is one of the best places to experience it — rows of classic cabinets drawing students, couples and curious travellers. A joyful, neon-lit way to spend the early part of your last evening.

End the trip at Caligari Brewing in Hongdae, where the house-brewed ales and lively crowd make for a proper send-off. The name nods to the expressionist film classic — the atmosphere is creative and convivial, exactly right for a last night in one of Asia's most energetic cities.