Smyrna on Foot: From the Bazaar to the Bay

Settle into your accommodation in or near Alsancak — the neighbourhood puts the Kordon waterfront and Kemeraltı bazaar within easy walking distance, setting you up perfectly for the two days ahead.

Start the day where Izmir turns its face to the sea. The Kordon promenade stretches along the Aegean bay with palms, cyclists, and fishermen — a long, unhurried morning stroll that gives you an immediate feel for the city's scale and mood.

At the heart of Konak Square, this Ottoman clock tower — a gift from Kaiser Wilhelm II in 1901 — marks the symbolic centre of the city. Pause here before ducking into the old bazaar just steps away.

A short walk from Konak, Aysel Abla serves the kind of home-cooked Turkish food that feels genuinely domestic — dishes ladled from big pots, eaten family-style at simple tables. Order whatever the daily specials are; you won't be steered wrong.

Plunge into Kemeraltı, Izmir's sprawling historic market quarter. The hans — Ottoman caravanserais built around inner courtyards — are tucked between spice sellers and textile stalls. Wander without a fixed destination: the Kızlarağası Han and Sadırvan Han reward those who slow down and look up.

The ancient Agora of Smyrna sits right in the middle of the modern city — a Roman marketplace rebuilt after an earthquake in 178 AD at Marcus Aurelius's order. The vaulted basement galleries are remarkably intact, and the contrast between the excavation pit and the surrounding apartment blocks is quietly extraordinary.

An honest dinner before the evening opens up. Köfteci Ramiz keeps it minimal: charred meatballs with grilled onions and sumac, served with bread and little ceremony. It's the kind of meal that clears your head.

Cap the first day high above Alsancak. Barcino's rooftop looks out over the bay, and as the lights of the Kordon reflect on the water, a craft cocktail feels entirely appropriate. The crowd is lively; the view earns it.

Head up to Kadifekale — the 'Velvet Castle' — the Byzantine and Ottoman fortress perched on the highest hill overlooking Izmir. The ancient walls are atmospheric even in ruin, and the panorama over the gulf on a clear morning is one of the city's great rewards. Get up early before the heat builds.

Back down in the city, lunch at Manisalı Bir Tat introduces you to the regional cooking of Manisa — bold spices, slow-cooked meats, and dishes with a distinctly inland character that you won't easily find elsewhere in Izmir.

The Asansör — a historic elevator tower built in 1907 to connect Karataş's hillside Jewish neighbourhood with the lower streets — is one of Izmir's most distinctive landmarks. Ride it up, admire the bay view from the top terrace, then wander the quiet Karataş backstreets lined with old Levantine mansions.

Return to the Kordon for the golden hour. Find a bench facing west and watch the sun drop over the bay — this is exactly what the promenade was designed for, and Izmir does it well.

Slide straight from the promenade into Sunset bar for an aperitif drink as the sky changes colour. The waterfront position and laid-back Mediterranean tempo make it an ideal bridge between afternoon and evening.

End the trip in proper Izmir fashion at Meyhane Batti — grilled fish, shared meze plates, raki poured freely, and string lights overhead. The locals come here to argue, laugh, and linger. Join them and let the evening run long.